The mother recipe is simple: Cook fish, serve in a taco. You can grill the fish. You can fry it. Whatever method you use can yield fish worth folding into a tortilla. Here, though, is a bespoke fish taco recipe I ginned up after watching a bunch of chefs cook fish fillets for a lot longer on one side than another, seeing what a marvelous crust they got in return. Fluke works great if you’re in the Northeast. But any firm white fish will do, including tilapia, the farmed fish protein that many street corner fish taco joints use really well. Deploy a simple salsa and lime-flecked crema topping to accompany the fish, however you end up cooking it.Ingredients For the salsa2 medium tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped1 small red onion, peeled and diced1 clove garlic, peeled and minced¹/₂ cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro1 jalapeño pepper, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut crosswise into half-moons (optional)Kosher saltFor the cremaGet the better newsletter.¹/₄ cup mayonnaise¹/₂ cup sour cream1 lime, cut in halfKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon canned chipotle pepper, finely chopped (optional)For the fish1 cup all-purpose flour1 tablespoon chili powder1 ¹/₂ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for finishing1 ¹/₂ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper1 cup whole milk2 pounds flounder or any firm white-fleshed fish, cut across the grain of the flesh into strips about ¹/₂ inch wide by 3 inches long¹/₂ cup peanut oil, plus a splash more for greasing the pan2 tablespoons unsalted butterTwenty-four 6-inch fresh corn tortillas2 to 3 cups shredded green cabbagePreparationMake the salsa. In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes, onion, garlic, cilantro, and jalapeño, if using. Add salt to taste.Make the crema. In a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise and sour cream until combined. Season to taste with the juice of the halved lime, the salt, the black pepper, and the chipotle, if using.Prepare the fish. In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, chili powder, salt, and black pepper. Pour the milk into another medium bowl and place the fish in it.Pour the peanut oil into a 12-inch frying pan and place over medium-high heat until it shimmers and is about to smoke. Remove the fish pieces from the milk bath and dredge them lightly through the flour mixture, shaking to remove excess. Add the butter to the pan. Place some fish pieces in the oil, without crowding them, and cook until deep golden brown on one side, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn carefully and cook for 1 minute more. Remove to a warmed, paper towel–lined plate and sprinkle with salt. Repeat with the remaining fish.Meanwhile, lightly grease a skillet with a drizzle of oil and set over medium heat. Heat the tortillas, one or two at a time, until they are soft and hot. Keep them warm, wrapped in a dish towel if you don’t have a tortilla warmer.Fill each tortilla with 3 pieces of fish, browned side up, followed by the tomato salsa and a pinch of cabbage. Drizzle with the crema. Serve 1 or 2 tacos per person, with lime wedges and hot sauce, such as Tapatío or Frank’s, on the side.Reprinted from See You on Sunday. Copyright © 2019 by Sam Sifton. Photographs © 2019 by David Malosh. Published by Random House, an imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC.More dinner ideasTrini-Chinese chickenClassic Margherita Pizza Garlicky roast chicken with shallots and potatoesRoast beef with crispy parmesan potatoesA Dijon and honey pork tenderloin is the star of this Sunday menuA one-skillet dinner your whole family will loveWant more tips like these? NBC News BETTER is obsessed with finding easier, healthier and smarter ways to live. Sign up for our newsletter and follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.